Machu Picchu (Day 9)

Machu Picchu - the place we were all waiting for, would it disappoint?

A really early start; 0500 alarm for breakfast 0530 to 0600 in-order to get in the queue for the buses at around 0615. The queue was quite orderly given the number of people waiting. The bus lady came up the queue to check our bus tickets against our passports so that once we got onto the bus we just jumped on. 

The buses came haring up the queue, swung around and then there they were there - it really is quite a slick operation. Amazingly we still had to wait for and hour or so which meant we finally got to the gate at  0730.  

The bus ride on no 23 was hair raising....... Switchback after switchback - buses flying up and down and passing each other at speed. The views again were spectacular - tried to take some photos and videos but we were moving really fast.....

Manuel, the chief spokesperson for the Inca Liberation Front (the ILF) and nominally our guide from the day, stated that in five years time a cable car will be installed that should dramatically reduce the travel time. Pepe told us the day before that this was not going to the case as the bus operators obviously didn’t want this to happen and so (with the help of generous amounts of cash) were stalling it. 

As with everything in this corrugated area of Peru our trip to Machu Picchu started with a walk up hill to the gate house. As we didn't find out from the ILF spokesman, there are two loops around the sight and this was the start for the first one. Let’s be honest we didn’t find out much of any practical use from our esteemed freedom fighter save that the Incas either discovered or invented everything. Examples: the worlds only stock of super foods and the Summer and Winter solstice’s, but not sure I can agree with that considering the fact that Stonehenge is 5,100 years old and the Incas came along 580 years ago. 

Anyway the Gate House is the sight of all the classic Machu Picchu photos so everyone was there (well the early birds were there, Nicola went back for a second loop around 11:30 and it was madness - bus loads of Japanese tourists and selfie sticks)! 

Machu Picchu did not disappoint. The backdrop of the sky was blue with little puffy white clouds. 

It is hard to describe, you have all seen the photos, but in real life it is much more spiritual and serene despite the number of people. I (Nicola) got quite emotional - it is somewhere Mummy has always wanted to visit and not really sure if this will be possible now. But I was seeing it for me and for her. I could have sat there for a very long time just soaking up the view.

As we progressed around the site we took in more detail of the Sun Tower, the different building styles of the walls, the llamas (including a one week old baby - if Manuel is to be believed), it was all still gangly legs!!! 

We also had an amazing view back towards our lunch spot from yesterday, when we really could grasp how far we had hiked the day before.

After the obligatory photos we set of to explore the site, as I say we learnt precious little from our guide and from subsequent research a lot of what we were told was wrong. Example, Manuel seemed to paint the site as the worlds first meritocratic seat of learning and research. Versus the more popular view that it was the Balmoral for the ninth Incan ruler and Inca Empire builder Pachacuti Inca Yuancuti. A small difference but…… 

Manuel finished his propaganda tour at 9:30 meaning Jon had to wait around for half an hour to tackle Huayna Picchu the seat of the highest priest according to the ILF or as Jon thinks a look out post and garrison. Nicola decided, sensibly, that maybe tackling more mountains on limited energy might not be the best idea. The peak stands 800 feet (260 meters) above Machu Picchu and serves as the backdrop to most of the typical photos of the Inca ruin. 

The 1.2 mile round rip hike took two hours with a ten minute stop at the top to take it all in. While the Mountain vista from the main site was breath taking, the additional 800 feet added a fresh perspective notably the way the the Urubamba river carved thru and almost defined the whole site. 

Then for the 45 minute knee jarring descent!

Meanwhile back on the main site of Machu Picchu, Nicola took the opportunity to sit down quietly and soak it all in as well as to call Mummy and Daddy - got them both at the hospital so was really nice to speak to them and hear their birthday wishes to me. 

It was lovely to just explore the site, although I fast worked out that it is a bit of a “one way” street around the site. Hmmmm, how to get back to Shorty. Eventually after much meandering and contemplation I headed back out of Machu Picchu and back in again. This time the hike up to the Gate Tower was not quite so serene as the day trippers from Cuzco had arrived.... I suppose everyone has the right to see this spectacular destination. It did really make me reflect on how lucky we had been at 7am and realising it was worth getting up at 5. This would be the only reason I would be the exorbitant $1500 a night at the Belmont to have the site to yourself in the morning before the buses start.

Meeting up with Nicola proved interesting due to our lack of knowledge about the two ‘route’ nature of the sites set up, I.e as Nicola had exited and Jon hadn’t they were now in what was effectively separate sights. Note, Nicola has just found a perfect viewing spot when Shorty started to connect with her :(

 

So it was decided that Jon would not re-enter and Nicola joined Jon and amazingly we found a quiet area and sat down to contemplate this wondrous place and if we are honest more so MIL’s stroke. In this place one was struck by what humans can achieve and given that thought Jon was left with a sense of hope about MILs progress.

Hunger drove Jon out of our secluded area and toward the outside that was now inhabited by everyone! In retrospect this marked the end of the trek as we were now on the way home. 

Via a hour and a half queue that snaked down the mountain, an armrest punctuated bus ride through the switchbacks (that cable-car needs to be built) we were reunited with our bags and were deposited onto the 1515 express to Ollantaytambo. 

What Peru rail lacks in speed it makes up for in entertainment. So as our two car train crawled along the bank of the Urubamba river we were treated to a visitation from a hybrid Inca/Christian devil and an alpaca fashion show. Oddly the assumed alpaca sales pitch never materialized and soon after the models returned to their normal jobs as our train conductors we arrived at out destination. Here was a switch from train to road as the train takes a further three hours to do an hours drive.  To be honest the drive was dull save for the hotel rooms secured to a cliff! On the way to Cusco we dropped Pepe of in his home town of Urubamba city, while we may have had run ins with our head guide he had on the whole been an excellent guide and a top man to boot. 

As with most ends of our trips the run home is never easy, both logistically and emotionally. As one migrates back one senses a shift in thought patterns, a speeding up of sorts as your brain anticipates the imminent arrival of real life, of work, of familiar routines and other none like minded people.   

The last action of of most of our travels is a martini at the heights cafe and the Bob inspired ‘what was you best and worst part of the trip’ discussion, thankfully the former always out weighs the latter! 

Then its time to plan the next trip..... watch this space. 

Lucma Lodge to Inkaterra Hotel (Day 8)

Another early start!!! And Happy Birthday’s all round to Nicola. Everyone was very sweet asking after me and wishing me a happy birthday. With everything that is going on at home, it was really lovely to be with a group of people who a few days ago didn’t know me, but they all looked after me and made my day special..... Especially Shorty xxx

There was also apologies all round for the noise from the Spotify party the night before. I will be totally honest it just became background noise and I slept through.

Was feeling a little better and managed some toast and a banana to try and get my strength up.  Got some fresh rehydrating salts and we were ready to go - well sort of....

After breakfast and sorting all our stuff out the “Stubborn Mules” (as we were now known) hit the trail at 0700. Today was billed as a seven hour day, three hours up hill and four down. Of course the uphill came first, so we strode out onto the old Inca trail and started up hill. Today we had no mule support, rather two local chaps who walked with us with the medical kit and extra water.

The main group pulled out an early lead as Nicola was still feeling the effects of her illness (no sustenance for 48 hours....).  After an hour we reached the point of no return and had “the discussion...” Nicola decided to go for it. The views from the trail were stunning, with alternating blue skies and cloud cover - very majestic. Shorty took a bunch of photos that we will try and attach, including some very dodgy ones of me in my sun hat - that was a good purchase before we left, not least because of the snow/wind blasting that we had had on the pass day.

We also had a Kili repeat incident this time with some French dudes - the classic of us stopping to let them go past (always nice for a breather) to then have them stop literally 5 minutes further up the hill. Quite some words were exchanged :) Doesn’t sound terrible, but when you get into a rhythm then having people block the way is a pain in the neck.

Nicola battled bravely all the way up to a resting point with bathroom, food and drink for purchase (it continues to amaze us both that the locals getting everything to where it needs to be on foot, possibly with the help of a mule, where we caught up with the rest of the group who sang Happy Birthday as she came into view, led by the crazy Pepe (who did threaten to keep doing it if Nicola didn’t get a move on). 

The next section was the steep section and although it took us a wee bit longer Nicola kept trudging along. We summitted yet another pass and started to head down to lunch. Lunch was taken in a lovely little building just down from some Inca ruins. But the building and the ruins paled into the back ground as we caught our first sighting of Machu Picchu - looking over the mountains to the Inca terraces. This was why Nicola battled on today to see this view - it was really quite emotional. 

It is a view that not many see as you have to invest a lot of sweat into getting there. But my God it was a view worth seeing. The photos just won’t do it justice, but the experience will live on with us forever.

After our delicious lunch of avocado (the Peruvians have the best avocado - have we said this already), trout (from a fish farmer we passed), lentils and quinoa it was time for the big descent. 

To get to lunch we had to gain 2,300 feet; to get to the train to Agua Calientes we had to lose 3,400 feet and in a hurry....... Much was made of the fact that we had a train to catch and limited time to do it so we started to hare down the one person wide switchbacks. A few other groups all started at the same time and before long we were all bunched up with some trying to overtake. 

Now, I know it could have been worse (Pepe told me during the break that sometimes the trail is pure mud and one has to go down sideways!) but it was very muddy and slippery and eventually the trail loungers decide to slow down and get out of the madness, it worked. Needless to say one should never believe the hype, we got to the station with plenty of time to spare. We had a couple of beers in a lovely private room laid on for us and then we were escorted to the train for the 45 minute transfer to Agua Calientes, to be honest I think you could have walked it in 30 minutes but it was nice to be off our feet and looking out of the window. This is where we said goodbye to Yarik - he was not wrong on that first day when he said to Nicola “we are going to become good friends”.....

The trains are all designed to have picture windows all along the side and across the top - so the journey teased us with spectacular views of the mountains. It was a very very slow train ride. The arrival in Agua Calientes is quite something - the train just goes up the main street, it is hard to describe, but really quite unique and fun. As we were sitting at the end of the town to do the switchback to get into the station, Pepe pointed out the cute restaurant beside us - it was the hotel we were going to be staying in. It was so tempting to jump out the train and walk over as we sat there for a good 20 minutes.

Into the hustle and bustle of the train station - people everywhere, dogs everywhere, shops everywhere. Final push to the Hotel Inkaterra - what a hotel, we had been told it was the best hotel in town and it lived up to it’s reputation. Our room was lovely - after a relaxing shower and sorting out of our bags, Shorty and I headed down to the bar area to open my birthday cards with a glass of champagne (that I nursed for 45 mins....). Thank you everyone for the lovely cards. The rest of the team soon joined us for our team meeting and pre dinner drinks. General consensus was to go for the earlier sitting as tomorrow was going to be a 5am start. 

Dinner was at the restaurant that sits between the train switchback - at times not that peaceful - the menu was lovely and even though I was still not doing great ordered some simple food that was absolutely delicious. Jim was on a roll and went very heavy on the red wine - few slower people the next morning. After a delicious dinner, good company, some wine, we toddled up to bed ready for the next day.

Colpa Lodge to Lucma Lodge (Day 7)

Day Seven didn’t start well as Nicola was struck down with the dreaded lurgy at three in the morning. Antibiotics and replenishing salts initially did little to help but after she was transported to the Lucma Lodge and had some sleep she was really looking a lot better when I arrived.

Insert from Nicola - Shorty makes it sound as though I was magically transported to the Lucma Lodge.... Hmm that is what I thought as well when Pepe and Yarik asked me if I wanted to take transport to the lodge. Sounded good after being up all night long, so I duly got myself into my regular trekking gear (no other options really), did my hiking boots up a tad loosely and grab my trekking poles (so as not to forget them) and off Yarik and I start. I’m thinking, hmmm, of course we need to get through the lodge property before we can get to transport. Well no, I was mistaken. We had to trek down the mountain that we were up - I could see the road well below us and was now thinking there was no way I was going to be magicked down there except on my own two feet. Some say walking downhill is so much easier than uphill - not so much when muddy, slippy, you’ve been up all night, and have no sustenance in you. But as ever Yarick was a trouper and got me down the hill. 45 minutes later we were at the road and waiting for the van. I found a rock, laid out my poncho, lay on it, rested my head on the rock and slept like a baby for 30 mins. Next step of the “easy option” was a bone shaking van trip along a windy road, not very well maintained and with sheer drops on the side. I think my call for a stop was less about the lurgy and more sheer panic!!!! We arrive at a wee village and Yarick kindly points me to a bathroom. It was actually someone’s bathroom in their home - very kind of them - their toothbrushes sitting above the sink. Think health and safety might have something to say about it.... Then... We trek UP to the lodge - another 45 minutes of sheer hell.....  But I made it, and the lodge team had made me chicken soup, toast and bananas to try and make me feel better. Give me my bed........

Shorty’s walk today was a lonely one, however it was still a nice jaunt further down into the cloud forest. The initial drop out of the lodge grounds, was very steep and narrow and had to be negotiated by Nicola in her reduced state and then she was then transported with the bags via a van and a 45 minute walk up Llactapata Inca Trail to the Lucma Lodge. 

A short distance from where Nicola was picked up the main body of the group turned off the road and onto a path that headed along the banks of the Santa Teresa River. When I say banks let me clarify, we were actually walking along a cliff above said river, with rock slides and waterfalls to add to the natural beauty and in parts fear. With only two steep uphill sections it was a pleasant three hour walk and the further down we went the weather got hotter and more humid and the sounds and smells of the jungle increased. 

We stopped for a fine lunch at (what I am calling) a trail service station (with adorable puppies - almost put them in my pack) and then walked for a further forty or so minutes to a trail head where we were picked up by a van (possibly the one Nicola had been in earlier) . Forty minutes of death defying, switchback and landslide riddled ‘road’ trip later we arrived at the same Llactapata Inca Trail head that Nicola had come to sometime before. 

The next stop on today’s trek was the Viamonte Coffer plantation, after initially dismissing this and a ‘exit via gift shop’ I was forced to eat or at least drink my words as we were served some of the best coffee I have had in the Americas. While the process of producing the coffee was a touch long winded and I was desperate to see my sickly better half I dutifully bought two pounds of their delicious product. 

We got to the lodge at three and after checking on Nicola it was time for what is now the daily routine of a scalding hot tub followed by a cerveza, and some fine Peruvian snacks. One could get used to this. 

Nicola graciously attended the team meeting and sat down for dinner. Just as well really as Pepe and Yarick had organised a birthday cake for her - passion fruit and sponge cake - even Nicola quite liked it. Although she did pause when they wanted her to cut it (given her germs... ) and Jeremy kindly stepped in for her. Everyone was ever so sweet singing happy birthday and making a fuss of Nicola. This was our last night in a Mountain Lodge.

Despite warnings of the next days ‘energetic’ hike to the hydro electric train station the after diner entertainment got a touch lively as someone took over the Spotify and started a small dance/singing party (envisage worm movements.....). Nicola was most stoic and even in her stricken state she slept through.