Machu Picchu (Day 9)

Machu Picchu - the place we were all waiting for, would it disappoint?

A really early start; 0500 alarm for breakfast 0530 to 0600 in-order to get in the queue for the buses at around 0615. The queue was quite orderly given the number of people waiting. The bus lady came up the queue to check our bus tickets against our passports so that once we got onto the bus we just jumped on. 

The buses came haring up the queue, swung around and then there they were there - it really is quite a slick operation. Amazingly we still had to wait for and hour or so which meant we finally got to the gate at  0730.  

The bus ride on no 23 was hair raising....... Switchback after switchback - buses flying up and down and passing each other at speed. The views again were spectacular - tried to take some photos and videos but we were moving really fast.....

Manuel, the chief spokesperson for the Inca Liberation Front (the ILF) and nominally our guide from the day, stated that in five years time a cable car will be installed that should dramatically reduce the travel time. Pepe told us the day before that this was not going to the case as the bus operators obviously didn’t want this to happen and so (with the help of generous amounts of cash) were stalling it. 

As with everything in this corrugated area of Peru our trip to Machu Picchu started with a walk up hill to the gate house. As we didn't find out from the ILF spokesman, there are two loops around the sight and this was the start for the first one. Let’s be honest we didn’t find out much of any practical use from our esteemed freedom fighter save that the Incas either discovered or invented everything. Examples: the worlds only stock of super foods and the Summer and Winter solstice’s, but not sure I can agree with that considering the fact that Stonehenge is 5,100 years old and the Incas came along 580 years ago. 

Anyway the Gate House is the sight of all the classic Machu Picchu photos so everyone was there (well the early birds were there, Nicola went back for a second loop around 11:30 and it was madness - bus loads of Japanese tourists and selfie sticks)! 

Machu Picchu did not disappoint. The backdrop of the sky was blue with little puffy white clouds. 

It is hard to describe, you have all seen the photos, but in real life it is much more spiritual and serene despite the number of people. I (Nicola) got quite emotional - it is somewhere Mummy has always wanted to visit and not really sure if this will be possible now. But I was seeing it for me and for her. I could have sat there for a very long time just soaking up the view.

As we progressed around the site we took in more detail of the Sun Tower, the different building styles of the walls, the llamas (including a one week old baby - if Manuel is to be believed), it was all still gangly legs!!! 

We also had an amazing view back towards our lunch spot from yesterday, when we really could grasp how far we had hiked the day before.

After the obligatory photos we set of to explore the site, as I say we learnt precious little from our guide and from subsequent research a lot of what we were told was wrong. Example, Manuel seemed to paint the site as the worlds first meritocratic seat of learning and research. Versus the more popular view that it was the Balmoral for the ninth Incan ruler and Inca Empire builder Pachacuti Inca Yuancuti. A small difference but…… 

Manuel finished his propaganda tour at 9:30 meaning Jon had to wait around for half an hour to tackle Huayna Picchu the seat of the highest priest according to the ILF or as Jon thinks a look out post and garrison. Nicola decided, sensibly, that maybe tackling more mountains on limited energy might not be the best idea. The peak stands 800 feet (260 meters) above Machu Picchu and serves as the backdrop to most of the typical photos of the Inca ruin. 

The 1.2 mile round rip hike took two hours with a ten minute stop at the top to take it all in. While the Mountain vista from the main site was breath taking, the additional 800 feet added a fresh perspective notably the way the the Urubamba river carved thru and almost defined the whole site. 

Then for the 45 minute knee jarring descent!

Meanwhile back on the main site of Machu Picchu, Nicola took the opportunity to sit down quietly and soak it all in as well as to call Mummy and Daddy - got them both at the hospital so was really nice to speak to them and hear their birthday wishes to me. 

It was lovely to just explore the site, although I fast worked out that it is a bit of a “one way” street around the site. Hmmmm, how to get back to Shorty. Eventually after much meandering and contemplation I headed back out of Machu Picchu and back in again. This time the hike up to the Gate Tower was not quite so serene as the day trippers from Cuzco had arrived.... I suppose everyone has the right to see this spectacular destination. It did really make me reflect on how lucky we had been at 7am and realising it was worth getting up at 5. This would be the only reason I would be the exorbitant $1500 a night at the Belmont to have the site to yourself in the morning before the buses start.

Meeting up with Nicola proved interesting due to our lack of knowledge about the two ‘route’ nature of the sites set up, I.e as Nicola had exited and Jon hadn’t they were now in what was effectively separate sights. Note, Nicola has just found a perfect viewing spot when Shorty started to connect with her :(

 

So it was decided that Jon would not re-enter and Nicola joined Jon and amazingly we found a quiet area and sat down to contemplate this wondrous place and if we are honest more so MIL’s stroke. In this place one was struck by what humans can achieve and given that thought Jon was left with a sense of hope about MILs progress.

Hunger drove Jon out of our secluded area and toward the outside that was now inhabited by everyone! In retrospect this marked the end of the trek as we were now on the way home. 

Via a hour and a half queue that snaked down the mountain, an armrest punctuated bus ride through the switchbacks (that cable-car needs to be built) we were reunited with our bags and were deposited onto the 1515 express to Ollantaytambo. 

What Peru rail lacks in speed it makes up for in entertainment. So as our two car train crawled along the bank of the Urubamba river we were treated to a visitation from a hybrid Inca/Christian devil and an alpaca fashion show. Oddly the assumed alpaca sales pitch never materialized and soon after the models returned to their normal jobs as our train conductors we arrived at out destination. Here was a switch from train to road as the train takes a further three hours to do an hours drive.  To be honest the drive was dull save for the hotel rooms secured to a cliff! On the way to Cusco we dropped Pepe of in his home town of Urubamba city, while we may have had run ins with our head guide he had on the whole been an excellent guide and a top man to boot. 

As with most ends of our trips the run home is never easy, both logistically and emotionally. As one migrates back one senses a shift in thought patterns, a speeding up of sorts as your brain anticipates the imminent arrival of real life, of work, of familiar routines and other none like minded people.   

The last action of of most of our travels is a martini at the heights cafe and the Bob inspired ‘what was you best and worst part of the trip’ discussion, thankfully the former always out weighs the latter! 

Then its time to plan the next trip..... watch this space.